Interesting Features

The secret of longuity of Hunzukutz

According to eminant writer and researcher James Hiltons,the great myth of Hunza tranquility contentment, life longuity and purity is perhaps the result of their largely vegetarian diet of cereals,fruit, simple but pure food, the strong water of Hunza (a mudy water that comprises tinny invisible particles of healthful wild bushes) and contentment to their life whatever it brings. He further writes in his nvel titled 'Lost Horizon' an isololated place on the planet of earth where one live happily.
The average age of Hunzukutz is around 70 years both among males and females. One of most interesting feature of Hunzukutz is that they seem much older when they reach at the age of 40s but one can find a contrast till next twenty years. They look much similar to that of in 40s compared to the for East regions of the world, where the faces and body postures look too young till 45 but suddenly turn older with in next five years except rare cases. Hunza an access to other major centres of civilization in ancient times. The valley is situated at an elevation of 2,438 metres (7,999 feet). The former capital Baltit has an elevation of 2477 metres (8129 feet). For many centuries, Hunza provided the quickest access to two major centres of civilization Swat and Gandhara in which a person had to travel on foot. The route was impassable to baggage animals; only human porters could get through, and then only with permission from the locals.

History

History of Peolple of Hunza

The origin of the people of Hunza is still unclear whose faces similar to European those with brown or blackish hair and green or blue eyes. According to some Hunzakuts believe a legend of three soldiers from the army of Alexander the Great, which passed through Pakistan in 325 BC and left behind here, settling in the valley with their Persian wives and founding the first villages of Altit, Baltit and Ganesh. What is certain is only about Altit, Ganish and Baltit villages , the very first settlements assumed settled in the 11th Century in Hunza. Indeed theses were only villages until the end of 18th century, when the irrigation channel were opened the colonies expand their territories. The fair skinned and light-eyed Hunzakuts claim to be descendants of soldiers lost from Alexander's army as he invaded India. Their language, Burushaski, provides linguists an enigma as it is unrelated to any other language known to man. These people are known world over for their amazing longevity and health. They live well beyond 100 years and have commonly been known to still father children at the age of 110. The Hunza has no known incidence of cancer.

What is the Special trait of Hunzukutz?
As much as the valley is famous for its beauty, the people of Hunza are one of their friendly and hospitable nature.

Festivals of Hunza

Festivals

Hunza is a home for many festivals pertaining to culture, faith and normal life sphere. In religious category there are about seven festivals celebrated throughout the year. There are generally two categories of fetivals celebrated across Hunza region.
1. Regligious Festivals
2. Cultural (Agricultural and daily life)
The whole year observes few major religious events of Eid-ul-Adha(the minor Eid),Eid-ul Fitr(geater Eid),Nowruz, Shab-e-Barat, Shab-e-Miraj,Eid Ghadeer, Eid Mubahila and Eid Millad-un-Nabi collectively. There are few more religious events including Salgirah-e-Imam Zaman Mubar (birth day of Aga Khan),Immat day and Commence day (Khushhali day) that are celebrated by Ismaili community of the region exclusively. There two well known agricultural events: Bophaw and Ginani commonly celebrated throughout the Hunza. Following is a brief account of the all events.

Account of Common Religious Festivals

Nowruz-A hitorical perspective:
There are many especial events that has been celebrated for a long time in central central Asia, Iran and subcontinent. Among the is Nowruz is most famous which brings a new spirit with blossoming trees and harmony among the dweller of the region. For thousands of years it was a formal festival under the supervision of Delhi, Agra, Bukhara,Tehran dynasties, princely states of Hyderabad and Awadh.It has not been just an festival of royal family but is a multidimensional phenomenon.When we study the Arabo-Persian power struggle, it reminds us an expression of hatred against Arabian Imperialism with support of Sunni clerics under supervision of Abbasid Caliph in Baghdad who asualted on Shia faith prevailing in the then Iran and surrounding areas. Later on due to contineous hostility and struggle between the Ismaili Fatmid and Abbasid Empire played a vital role to equivilize the situation. Its tyranny that what today we underestimate as a “heresy” was once the official Islam of half of the Islamic world and its continuous dawa in Abbasid lands made it “people’s religion” in other. Many of Sufies were very much be Ismaili dais (preachers). Sufism resembles to Ismaili faith to a large extent i.e in its understanding of concept of soul, hereafter and virtue. Grdaully, through Sufi teaching and its accompanying Ismaili dawa the festival reached the Sunni lands of Central Asia, Afghanistan, Africa, Indo subcontinent, Turkey and many parts of Eastern Europe. Kurds, an ethnic tribe also adopted the event due to the mystical tradition originated from Ismaili faith. When Pakistan came into being, many Arabian clerics and state sponsored organization with the help of Sunni population propagated against the event and the Nowruz went into With formation of Pakistan and its increasing Arabaization and State sponsored Anti Shia militancy, festival of Nowruz has virtually gone into gloom. Despite of certain conspiracies and many negative myths,Nowruz is not celebrated in Pakistan, it is widely celebrated in various corners of the world. The Shia faith including Ismaili community, Itnashary and Noorbakshi who make a sizeable population in Pakistan and they celebrate Nowruz as an “Eid”, special ceremonies and prayers are offered in the Jamat Khanas and Imam Bargahs and sweets, fruits, perfumes, flowers usually mark the offerings of Nowruz. These communities living in other cities also celebrate Nowruz with zeal but under roof.Therefore, mojority of an average educated Urban Pakistani simply doesn’t know about Nowruz. Another community which celebrates Nowruz is the Zoroastrian community commonly known as the “Parsi community”. Parsi community is trying to preserve the ancient pre-Islamic heritage of Iran. Geographically Nowruz is celebrated with greater enthusiasm in Karachi, Quetta, Peshawer, especially Hunza , Gilgt and Baldistan, Multan and Kashmir.
Briefly speaking , according to Shiat school of though Nowruz is the day to celebrate the wilayah of Hazrat Ali and house of Muhammed (P.B.U.H). Ginans describe this all by praise of the Imams those day. Shams Tabrez,a mysterious mystic was also an Ismaili dai who introduced Rumi to “Batin”, what lies beyond the words of Quran. We can learn this in one of his Ginan "Saqiyeh ba wafa manam dhamhama dham Ali ALi now a days recited frequently. This particular Ginan is being offered by none other than Queen of mystic music Abida Parveen and it speaks about the “Raj”, the Millennium when charismatic Imams, the continuation of Koranic symbology of Noor-un-ala-noor will rule the humanity. The start of this was affirmation of Ali in realm of spirits an act which is symbolized in day of Nowruz. In modern times this Ginan is specially recited on coronation of the Aga Khan the “Hazir Imams”, the continuation of Ismaili Imamat and the most philosophical rich movement in Islam whose metaphysics contributed a lot in development of mysticism. The devotion of Abida Parveen is worth seeing, a truly spiritual experience. The Prince Karim Aga Khan, the Hazir Imam can be seen enjoying the Ginan.

Nowruz Celebrations in Hunza

On the ocasion of Nowruz people dress up and visit each other. Special prayers are offered in Imam Bargahs and Jamat Khanas and Mehdi, bangles and Eidi are also part of Nowruz celebration. I remember it has been celebrated with great joy; 'Bikak' are especially cooked for the ocasion and young girls enjoy most by playing rope. Special open programs are organized to perform traditional dance and very famous among the men.




Eid-UL-Azha (The minor Eid):
The Eid makes us to remind the scrifice offered by Hazrat Abrahma of his son Hazrat Ismail in the name of Allah almighty. Special Prayers are followed by visits with family and friends, and the exchange of greetings and gifts. At some point, members of the family will visit a local farm or otherwise will make arrangements for the slaughter of an animal. The meat is distributed during the days of the holiday or shortly thereafter. At the end of the Hajj (annual pilgrimage to Mecca), Muslims throughout the world celebrate the holiday of Eid al-Adha (Festival of Sacrifice). During the Hajj, Muslims remember and commemorate the trials and triumphs of the Prophet Abraham. The Qur'an describes Abraham as follows:
"Surely Abraham was an example, obedient to Allah, by nature upright, and he was not of the polytheists. He was grateful for Our bounties. We chose him and guided him unto a right path. We gave him good in this world, and in the next he will most surely be among the righteous." (Qur'an 16:120-121)
One of Abraham's main trials was to face the command of Allah to kill his only son. Upon hearing this command, he prepared to submit to Allah's will. When he was all prepared to do it, Allah revealed to him that his "sacrifice" had already been fulfilled. He had shown that his love for his Lord superceded all others, that he would lay down his own life or the lives of those dear to him in order to submit to God. During the celebration of Eid al-Adha, Muslims commemorate and remember Abraham's trials, by themselves slaughtering an animal such as a sheep. This action is very often misunderstood by those outside the faith. Allah has given us power over animals and allowed us to eat meat, but only if we pronounce His name at the solemn act of taking life.
Muslims slaughter animals in the same way throughout the year. By saying the name of Allah at the time of slaughter, we are reminded that life is sacred. The meat from the sacrifice of Eid al-Adha is mostly given away to others. One-third is eaten by immediate family and relatives, one-third is given away to friends, and one-third is donated to the poor. The act symbolizes our
willingness to give up things that are of benefit to us or close to our hearts, in order to follow Allah's commands. It also symbolizes our willingness to give up some of our own bounties, in order to strengthen ties of friendship and help those who are in need. We recognize that all blessings come from Allah, and we should open our hearts and share with others. It is very important to understand that the sacrifice itself, as practiced by Muslims, has nothing to do with atoning for our sins or using the blood to wash ourselves from sin. This is a misunder standing by those of previous generations: "It is not their meat nor their blood that reaches Allah; it is your piety that reaches Him." (Qur'an 22:37)
The symbolism is in the attitude - a willingness to make sacrifices in our lives in order to stay on the Straight Path. Each of us makes small sacrifices, giving up things that are fun or important to us. A true Muslim, one who submits his or herself completely to the Lord, is willing to follow Allah's commands completely and obediently. It is this strength of heart, purity in faith, and willing obedience that our Lord desires from us.



Eid-ul-Fitr (Bigger Eid):
Eid-ul-Fitr is the most important festival in the Islamic calendar. This festival is the culminating point of the Holy month of Ramazan, during which holy Quran and Laila-tul-Qadr (Night of Grandeur) were gifted to the Muslim Ummah. While fasting teaches us self-discipline and provides us moral and spiritual blessings, Eid-ul-Fitr marks the end of the fasting and brings the message of collective merry-making as well as sharing our good fortune with the less fortunate in our fraternity.
The entire Muslim Ummah celebrates this most auspicious festival in every nook and corner of the world with great spiritual devotion, offering Eid Prayers in eidgahs, mosques or open spaces in towns and cities. The Eid-prayer is the clima of this grand festival. One can see during this special congregation endless sight of row upon row of the faithfully spread across the open air
eidgahs, a supreme manifestation of the Muslim fraternity and equality of mankind.




Eid Milad-un-Nabi:
Milad-un Nabi is the birthday celebration of our beloved Prophet Muhammad (P.B.U.H) and is celebrated by Muslims throughout the world. Prophet Muhammad was born Arabia in the city of Mecca on the 12th day of Rabi-ul-Awwal, which was Monday the 20th day of April, 571 A.C. The occasion is celebrated by remembering the favors bestowed on the ummah (community),
the first is the revelation of the Holy Quran with its instructions, the second, the institution of an Everliving Guide who would advise the mu'mins (believers) according to the needs of the time. This is why Ismailis are called Ibn'ul Waqt (children of the time) as they are guided by the Imam of the time, Noor Mowlana Shah Karim Al Hussayni Hazar Imam (salwaat), His Highness the Aga Khan. He is the 49th Imam descended from the Holy Prophet's daughter, Fatima and Hazrat Ali (a.s.). For Shia Muslims, this occasion is of even more import and full of symbolism as this was also his death anniversary and, therefore, it endorses the Hablillah (Rope of Imamat) wherein Prophet Muhammad had chosen Hazrat Ali as his successor at Gadhir-e Khumm. What I am trying to say is that, this more than a coincidence. Prophet Muhammad's birthday coincided with his physical passing as was ordained by God. Hazrat Ali took over the spiritual reins from him and this chain has continued to the present. In every jomma (period of Imamat) the previous Imam appoints the following Imam and even though the previous Imam passes away physically, which could be a day of mourning, the ummah rejoices at the installation of the new Imam as the Covenant (promise of the Light of Allah) continues.
Regarding this, Mowlana Sultan Mahomed Shah (A.S.) said in one of his sermons: "We (the Imams) change the physical bodies in the world but our Noor (Divine Light) is eternal and comes from the very beginning. You should therefore take it as one Noor. The Noor (Light of Allah) is ever present, only the names are different. The Throne of the Imamat of Mowlana Murtaza Ali (a.s.) continues on and will remain till the Day of Judgment."
(source: Ilm, Vol. 3, No. 2 - Nov. 1977 pg 22)
The Eid-e Milad and Eid-e Gadhir are two very important celebrations for Shia Muslims. On this day every year, believers gather to recite special prayers for thanksgiving to Allah for sending Prophet Muhammad as a mercy to all nations, and speeches and lectures are made about the seerat (life) and instructions of the Holy Prophet. Poetry in the form of naats are recited and after the prayers, sweets are distributed and perfume is sprinkled or applied on everyone. The
ladies and children gather for the mehndi (henna) application and everyone wears beautiful clothes for the occasion. Children get money or gifts and in East Africa we used to go to a fete, Eid Mela (fun fair) organized on this occasion by community members and we could ride on the swing merry-go round on which as children we had great fun.
Mowlana Sultan Mahomed Shah stressed this message of Prophet Muhammad and maintained that Islam by its very nature was dynamic and not rigid and spiritual faith should advance with along with material progress. In his Message to the World of Islam, he said:
"Formalism and verbal interpretation of the teachings of the Prophet are in absolute contradiction with his whole life history. We must accept his Divine Message as the channel of our union with the 'Absolute' and the 'Infinite' and once our spiritual faith is firmly established, fearlessly go forward by self sacrifice, by courage and by application to raise the scientific, the economic, the political and the social position of Muslims to a place of equality with Christian Europe and America. "Our social customs, our daily work, our constant efforts, must be tuned up, must be brought into line with the highest form of possible civilization. At its greatest period Islam was at the head of science, was at the head of knowledge, was in the advance line of political, philosophical and literary thought."
Addressing the Seerat Conference, our beloved Mowlana Hazar Imam advised the Muslim World to make the Prophet's life the beacon light for achieving a truly modern and dynamic Islamic society. He said:
"The Holy Prophet's life gives us every fundamental guideline that we require to resolve the problem as successfully as our human minds and intellects can visualize. His example of integrity, loyalty, honesty, generosity, both of means and of time his solicitude for the poor, the weak and the sick, his steadfastness in friendship, his humility in success, his magnanimity in victory, his simplicity, his wisdom in conceiving new solutions for problems which could not be solved by traditional methods, without affecting the fundamental concepts of Islam, surely, all these are foundations which correctly understood and sincerely interpreted, must enable us to conceive what should be a truly modern and dynamic Islamic society in the years ahead."




Eid-e-Ghadeer:
Eid al-Ghadeer is the anniversary commemorating the holy Prophet Muhammad's last sermon at Ghadir Khumm, which occurred on 18th of Dhu al-Hijjah of 10 AH in the Islamic calendar. It is an event celebrated by Shias, and is the basis of their confirmation of Ali ibn Abi Talib's succession to Muhammad. On the occasion Hazrat Muhammad (P.B.U.H) declares raising his hand before the audience (Muslim pilgrims) on the vast plain of Arabian peninsula that " Ali is the master of those who assume me their leader" and prayed "Oh, lord love those who love Ali and hate them ho keep hostilty towars Him. Sunni Muslims do not deny that a last sermon took place, but do not celebrate the day, as in they believe that, in Islam, the only days that are considered celebratory are Eid al-Fitr and Eid ul-Adha. and also Sunni's believe that there is no eid al-ghadeer because Prophet Mohammad never said some thing like this.




Didar mubarak:
Ismaili community celebrates the first visit of spiritual leader Imam Shah Karim Alhusaini to the region. His followers in any part of world call it Deedar Mubarak.
In many villages like Hyderabad, special procession along with bands appears and visit all localities in its jurisdiction to celebrate the happiness of their beloved Imam.




Salgirah Mubarak:
This is another event of Ismaili Community which commemorate the birthday and Imamat day of 49th Imam Shah Karim Alhusaini (Aga Khan) . Mountain lightening in the night turns Hunza valley into a twinckling garden.

Account of Cultural Festivals

Bophaw:
This festival is about sowing which is celebrated in Hunza during the month of Feburaury since Mirs time. The custom was bit intresting in that time when the courtiers of all over the Hunza region used to gather at Mirs darbar to celebrate this event. A person from Diramiting tribe, one of major tribe of Hunza used to start this event by sowing in one of the fields. Food was distributed at the end. People coming from all over Hunza danced on the local tunes. People of Dirmiting tribe has had honour to initaite the sowing process.

Ginani:
It is a festival celebrated across the area in last week of June when the crop is ready to harvest. This event is called Ginani in Hunza and ganoni in Gilgit. Traditional food is the main feature of this event. In this festival the guardian of the family member goes to the field and bring some wheat straws which are peeled. The grains are mixed in the local yougert and presented along with a special food called Dhirum Phitee to shared with the surrounding families. The history of Ginani festival is bit old. It has been celebrated in Hunza proper with a great zeal. The festival was much proper befor the construction of Karakurum High Way for the whole community depended upon agricultural means to surview.

Thomoshalling:

This event is based on a myth that there was a wicked ruler named Shiri Badat who used to slaughter kids as his favourite food, forcebaly took from the subjects. A plot was made to kill by the help of his daughter and the plan worked . Therefore, it is linked to the death of a cruel rular Shiri badat who was thrown to fire in 21st century. In Hunza this event is called Thomoshaling
while Dashti in khowar language. This is celebrated in late November in a presumption that this is neccessary to keep he dead. People celebrate it in a fashion that they used to take fire from their houses to a common place where they put on collective fire to celebrate the death of the Shiribadat.

Garukus:

This event is celebrated in Hunza after Thomoshaling and before Bofow to welcome the spring season. The heads and feet of slaughtered animal in thomoshalling are cooked at this event with other traditional food.

Marriages ceremonies:

Marriages are generally held in November and December after completion of harvesting threshing and all related work. But now in modern times people do not wait for winter. They hold marriages whenever they financially feel viable for them. Traditionally marriages are held with great joy and fervor.



Silk Route festival:
Historians assert that thousands of years ago there was a path way along the Indus river, the 4th century Chinese traveler Fahain had noted that the path way was nothing short than a line to hell. Marco polo in 13th century had followed the silk route on the great North road. The Karakorum Highway High way has given a new life to that ancient route by reviving past trade links. AKRSP has organized many events to review the ideas of Silk route trade and boost up the ralation between the communities across the border.

Customs in Hunza

Youshayas:
This is almost celebrated either on individual or in two families collectively to reduce the individual cost.People slaughter animals and store the meat for rest of the year. The taste of the meat is so delicious and unforgettable.

Circumcisions:

The male circumcision (Bisman) may follow a birth by a few days or any time up to age ten depending on boy's health and the family's resources. The circumcision is performed by a doctor.

Cleanliness of channels:

The people of NAs always demonstrate self help and working collectively in many social sectors for the welfare and development. Before cultivation people gather and collectively clean the channels for irrigation.

Abous Us

Hunza our Motherland

We are a group of students belong to Hunza valley, currently studying at University of Karachi away from our home village; but that lies in our hearts. We have such a memoirs with Hunza that make us feel uncomfortable in a turmoiled atmosphere here at Karachi. That is why we used to pay visit annually. And this blog is being made on the occasion of Summer trip.

We hope that the blog will serve to portray real picture of Hunzai culture and traditions to all visitors.

Warm wishes and Regards!
Shamsuddin Hunzai

Hunting Season In Hunza

Hunting at Hunza

Hunza is famous for hunting of its Marco Polo sheep, a unique sheep of its kind and only find on peaks and glaciers at high altitude. People of Hunza are fond of the meat obtain from the hunting. It was a tradtion in past to go pastures and peaks of higher altitude standing on the back of the region.

The hunters were supposed to return within a week carying with one of the delicious meat ever tasted. With the passage of time, this custom has been transformed due to establishment of World Life Fund to protect the spacies. Now, this is done in specail season with a great fun.
I personally remember that once he brought and when I tasted, it was so delicious that I still remember.
Espcially, forneigners are fond of this hobby who get special permission from the local authorities.

Marco Polo ships can run with at a speed of 74 Kilometers per hour and it has high potential to leap on long distances. And it can be hunt while hiding somewhare and ambush suddenly on a cliff.

Ibex Hunting in the Region

Both the European or Alpine population, and Himalayan population of Ibex share common certain distinguishing features. The Himalayan Ibex can be separated from the Alpine population by the horn shape which, in adult males, grows much longer, curving round to form 3/4 of a complete arc and tapering to relatively slender points. The record horn from Pakistan measured 140cm (55 inches) and came from Gilgit. It had a basal girth of 26.5cm (10.5 inches) and a gap of 63.5cm (25 inches) between tips and certainly in Gilgit a head with horns over this length would be considered an exceptionally good trophy.Confined to relatively arid mountain ranges of the inner Himalyas, living well above the tree line only in the higher more precipitous regions. They occur from about 3660m (12,000 feet) to over 5000m (16400 feet) in Pakistan, though they sometimes migrate from one mountain range to another in winter and in so doing have been seen crossing vallies below 2135m (7000feet)

Himalayan Ibex

They are fairly wide spread through the higher mountain ranges of Baltistan in the Karakoram Range, the Haramosh range, and the probably the highest population of Ibex now survives in Northern Hunza, specially in the water shed of Khunjerab, and to the east of Khunjerab. In Gilgit, they are still fairly plentiful in Ishkoman, Yasin and Hunza. Further west they occur in the Hindukush range of mountains and throughout Northern Chitral down to about 32 kilometers north of Chitral and in the higher mounain regions of Chilas and on the slopes of Malika Parbat. Saphaid Koh range in the North West Frontier Province and this is the southern most limit of its range. This is a smaller animal than the Himalayan Ibex.

Himalayan Ibex has a wider distribution and is plentiful and its future survival is not so threatened in Pakistan largely due to the inaccessibility of its haitat provided by the very extensive concentration of very high mountain ranges in the extreme north western regions. Baltistan and Hunza are undoubtedly the strong holds of the Himalayan Ibex in the region today. In the early spring the Ibex are half starved and eagerly seek new sprouting grass when it is available at lower milder elevations. This is the only time when they descend as low as 2450m (800 feet) and are thus much easier to hunt.

Things to Know

Rifles: Rifles with common hunting caliber are allowed
Ammunition: maximum 100 rounds per hunter
Equipment: normal hunting dress, sleeping bag, portable hunting seat, tough boots, binoculars.
Weather: In the day time its pleasant and at night is very cold
We need at least 6 weeks for clearance of hunters for processing the permission for Ibex hunts.
1. hunting season is from October to March.
2. 100 % guaranteed trophy hunt.
3. Hunting area Northern Areas of Pakistan.
4. Hunters age dose not matter, but good physical and health condition is necessary.
5. Normally hunter can shoot animal in the 4th or 5th day after starting the hunting trek. We are always doing our best try to scout and search for the good trophy by our professional hunting guides before starting the hunting expedition.
6. All the charges and government fee are non refundable after obtaining the hunting permit.
7. Hunter will pay in advance very well in time to book the Ibex hunting permit for the coming season.
8. Only one hunter can join expedition, and no limit for non hunters to join the expedition.
9. Non hunter member will pay only service charge.

Expected Time Span for visitors for an Open Ibex Huning Program

Day 1 Arrival in Islamabad and transfer to hotel. City with an good transportation service.
Day 2 Drive to hunting area in North of Pakistan but it requires a night stay at hotel.
Day 3 Drive to hunting camp.
Day 4 Stalking with expert professional guide for Ibex hunt.
Day 5 Stalking with expert professional guide for Ibex hunt.
Day 6 Stalking with expert professional guide for Ibex hunt.
Day 7 Stalking with expert professional guide for Ibex hunt.
Day 8 Stalking with expert professional guide for Ibex hunt.
Day 9 Stalking with expert professional guide for Ibex hunt.
Day 10 Stalking with expert professional guide for Ibex t hunt.
Day 11-12 Drive back to Islamabad and transfer to airport for departure to hunter destination.

CULTURAL HERITAGE

Hunza is rich of cultural activities. Commonly people love to celebrate events that have been last for many centuries. Traditional dance is common among people of all ages across the Hunza. there are many place worth of seeing with Tibetan-Balti designs.

Hunza Traditional Dance

People express their feeling in aespecial dance called Traditional dance of Hunza. The traditional band which is also unique for its characteristics make the hobby full of fun and excitement.

GEOGRAPHY OF HUNZA

Hunza Valley locally known as Hunzo, is a mountainous valley in Gilgit in the Northern Areas of Pakistan borderding China. Hunza valley is situated at an elevation of 7,999 feet. Geographically, gigantic mountains that have stretched over an area of 110 kilometers surround the valley. The terrain is full of variety with diversity in the heights of the peaks of 1500 meters to 8000 meters, the world famous Rakaposhi (7788 m) peak is one of them which, against the calm blue sky, shimmers to the maximum and creates an illusion to captivate the eye up to a level where time seems to be stopping for ever.The average temperature during summer (May to September) maximum 34 and minimum 20 degree centigrade. Hunza is famous among the para gliders throughout the Europe.

LANGUAGES OF HUNZA

The spoken language of Hunza people generally known as Brusho is 'Brushaski'. It is written like urdu and persian script but still no one able to find the origin of language. The general structure of language comprsises words from Turkish, Persian, Chinese, English, Pashtoo, Balti, Wakhi and central asian states. The masese of three major regions of area: Hunza, Nagar and Yasin valleys have the smilar dialects except few terms of modern use. There are other two languages spoken and written in the area are: Shina (language used in lower Hunza), Wakhi (language used in upper Hunza).

HUNZA- Political History

For centuries the tiny state was unconquerable. When Kashmir sent a force to attack it in the 1848, the Hunzakutz captured more than 200 of Kashmiris and sold them as slaves to Chinese Turkistan. Hunza was considered critical to the expansionist plans of both Russia and British India as it controlled the most important mountains passes linking Russia, India and China, Johan Biddolph was the first Westerner to penetrate Hunza southern defenses in 1876, but not allowed to explore beyond the capital at Baltit today's Karimabad. In 1888, the Rusians entering from the north negotiated with the mir of Hunza offering arms and technical training in return for a Russian post at Baltit.n 1889 the British countered by sending Francis Young husband to explore mountain passes and by reopening their British Agency in Gilgit in 1889. They also negotiated with the mir of Hunza, offering a subsidy in return for safe passage for trade caravans between Gilgit and Kashgar, safe passage on the Leh-Yarkand route, and the breaking of relations with Russia. It did not take the mir long to calculate that the Russian deal was more advantageous, so he returned the English representatives to Gilgit. The British decided to invade Hunza, and in December 1891, a force led by Colonel Algernon Durand advanced to Nilt, and accompanied the fled minister form Baltit, informed all the secrets to the British, In fierce battle lasting three weeks, During the battle the Duran was injured by a Bullet made by Russians, Decided to return form here, he though that the Russian are here to help to Hunzakutz, But the fled wazir informed that they have only one bullet which they fired but not any more, the british aided by a Nagar prince defeated the combined forces of Nagar and Huzna. The mir fled to Xinjiang and Baltit Fort was ransacked in search of treasure, they found little except for some beautifully decorated Quran,a Holy Book and secret room full of gunpowder, garnet bullets and a few Russian rifles.
It reamined a princely state in the northern most part of the Northern Areas of Pakistan, till 1974. The state bordered the Gilgit Agency to the south, the former princely state of Nagar to the east, China to the north and Afghanistan to the northwest. the state capital was the town of Baltit (also known as Karimabad). Rulers of this state were Muslim (Ismaili) and have an area of 10,101 km². The area of Propr Hunza now forms the Aliabad tehsil of Gilgit District. Hunza was an independent principality for 900 years.
The British gained control of Hunza and the neighbouring valley of Nagar between 1889 and 1892. The Tham (Mir) of Hunza escaped to China. Although never ruled directly by neighbouring Kashmir, Hunza was a vassal of Kashmir from the time of Maharaja Ranbir Singh of Jammu and Kashmir. The Mirs of Hunza sent an annual tribute to the Kashmir Durbar until 1947, and along with the ruler of Nagar, was considered to be among the most loyal vassals of the Maharaja of Kashmir.On 3rd November 1947, the ruler, Mohammad Jamal Khan sent a telegram to Mohammad Ali Jinnah acceding his state to Pakistan. Then it came 1974 when Zulfiqar Ali Bhutto came here to introduce reforms on democratic lines. Now it enjoy specific rights as bestow by the government of Pakistan.
Pople of Hunza are now well educated and striving for thier due rights and identity and it is likely that the region will be given a special status like that of the Azad Kashmir government with an interim constitution to full fill aspirations of dwellers.

Choronology of Royal Dynasty

Ancient Era

Title: Rullers (Mirs) Time Span

The Hephtalites 410 - c. 550
The Pratiharas 550 - 988
Bokhara 988 - 999
The Ghaznavid Empire 999 - 1148
The Ghurid Empire 1148 - 1213
Khwarazm 1213 - 1220
The Mongols 1221 - 1332
The Timurids 1379 - 1506

2nd Phase Medual Era

Hunza State founded 1521

Rulers (title: Mir)
Salim Khan II
Shah Sultan Khan
Shahbaz Khan 1710 - 1740
Shahbeg Khan
Shah Kisro Khan 1750 - 1780
Mirza Khan 1780- 1790
Salim Khan III 1790 - 1825

3rd Phase Neu Midual Era

Under suzerainty of Kashmir 1891
Ghazanfar Ali Khan I 1825 - 1864
Mohammad Ghazan Khan I 1864 - 1886
Safdar Ali Khan 1886 - 1891

The last independent ruler was Mir Safdar Khan, who ruled from 1886 to December 1891 -until the British conquest in December 1891. His younger brother Mir Mohammad NazimKhan was installed by the British and Maharaja (Raja) of Kashmir in September 1892.
Mohammad Nazim Khan, Tham of Hunza who reigned from 15 Sep 1892 to 22 Jul 1938
Mohammad Ghazan Khan IIwho reigned from 22 Jul 1938 - 1945

4th Phase Modern Era

Mohammad Jamal Khan S/o M. Ghazan Khan II who ruled from Apr 1945 - 25 Sep 1974
Hunza incorporated into Pakistan 25 Sep 1974
Mohammad Jamal Khan died in 1976. His son Ghazanfar Ali Khan II becomes the non sovereign head of the state from 1976. Some of the family members are now settled in United Kingdom. State of Hunza was dissolved by Z. A. Bhutto, Prime Minister of Pakistan on 25 Sep 1974.

Thum

The traditional name for the ruler in Hunza was Thum which is also a respectful appellation used by people of both Hunza and Nager who belong to the caste of Boorish. The Shin use the term Yeshkun for the Boorish. Hunza has been ruled by a family of Mirs of Hunza for about 960 years.There are many theories about the origin of Hunzukutz. According to one myth they are are believed to be the descendents of five wandering soldiers of Alexander the Great. The people of Hunza speak Brushuski, an aboriginal language.

WHAT AGA KHAN ENCOURAGES AS A LEADER

Noor Mowlana Shah Karim Alhusaini, Aga Khan (fourth) is the 49th spritual leader of Ismaili faith who lead the community gaining prosper day by day. The Aga Khan encourages Ismaili Muslims, especially those settled in the industrialized world, to contribute towards the progress of communities in the developing world through various develop ment programs. In recent years, Nizari Ismaili Muslims, who have come to the US, Canada and Europe, many as refugees from Asia and Africa, have readily settled into the social, educational and economic fabric of urban and rural centers across the two continents. As in the developing world, the Nizari Ismaili Muslim community's settlement in the industrial world has involved the establishment of community institutions characterized by self-reliance, emphasis on education, and philanthropy.

HISTORICAL MAINSTREAM OF ISMAILIES

According to one version, the Fatimids sought to spread the Ismaili faith in order to spread loyalty to the Imamate in Egypt and undermine the Abbasid empire. According to another, after the Nizari Ismaili lost a factional battle, they fled Egypt. All agree that Hassan-i-Sabbah of Persia was a most successful missionary teacher or Dai serving the Ismaili cause, and was responsible for the eventual prominence of the Nizari. Hassan-i-Sabbah was born in Qom in 1056 AD to Twelver Shi'a parents. His family later moved to Tehran which was an Ismaili center. Hassan-i-Sabbah studied Ismaili thought, When he was nearly killed by an illness, he decided to convert. He later became one of the most influential Dais, essentialy founding the Nizari branch of Ismailism, named after his son Nizar. Hassan-i-Sabbah took over the fortress of Alamut, which became a Fatimid outpost in the Abbasid empire. Alamut remained a center of Ismailism until it was destroyed by the Mongol Hulagu two centuries later.
Hassan-I-Sabbah used the Hashasheen, who can be described either as faithful disciples or terrorists depending on one's point of view, to "convince" people of his faith. The word "Assassin" is derived from Hashasheen. The Hashasheen are said by opponents to have been Hashish (Cannabis) eaters, who owed their ferocious behavior to use of the drug. Their characteristic trademark of the assassination was that they would not leave the scene of the crime. Ismaili claim that the Hashasheen derive their name from Hassan-i-Sabbah. They called themselves al dawa al Jadida and were also called fedayeen. According to the stories of enemies, they were first indoctrinated in a paradisaical garden under the influence of Hashish, and then told that their only means of salvation, return to the garden, was following the orders of Hassan-i-Sabbah.
In the tenth century, the Qarmatians accepted a young Persian prisoner, Abu'l-Fadl al-Isfahani,
from Isfahan as the Mahdi - the returned hidden Imam, Muhammad ibn Ismail. He claimed to be the descendant of the Persian kings.
The Qarmatians changed their qibla (direction of prayer) from the Kaaba to the Zoroastrian infl -uenced fire. The Qarmatians violently rampaged through out Middle-East, and stole the Black Stone from the Kaaba in Mecca about 930. After their retu -rn of the Black Stone in 951 and defeat by the Abbasids in 976 they faded out of history. In 1171 the Fatimid Ismaili dynasty was ended by Salah al Din (Saladin). By that time North Africa had largely reverted to Sunni Islam, but the Ismaili survived principally in the east. The Mongol invasion shattered the Abbasid and Fatimid empires. Hulagu destroyed Alamut in 1256. The last of the Hashashin were supposedly destroyed in 1272. The branches of Ismaili were now geographically isolated, though in some places they coexists, as the Druze and Nizari, and in South Asia which has both Mustaali and Nizari. Ismaili Muslims follow their forty ninth Imam Noor Mowlana Shah Karim-al-Hussaini, residing in Agrimount, Paris.

ISMAILI FAITH

Ismailies are a Shia Muslim sect, sometimes called "Seveners" as opposed to Twelver Shia. The term is understood to have different meanings. They all believe that Ismail was the seventh Imam and the eldest son of Imam Jaffar-e-Sadiq (Aliahi Salam). Twelver Shia, the main Shia branch, believe that Jafar -e-Sadiq (A.S) had passed the Imamate to his second son. Ismaili, unlike the the Twelver Shia, have a system of philosophy science and religion that provided a theological rationale for the Imamate and the rights of the Fatimids to it. The precise origins of the Ismaili are shrouded in mystery. Ubaid Allah al Mahdi, the founder of the Fatimid Dynasty, came to North Africa from Yemen apparently in the early tenth century and actively promoted the Ismaili faith. The Fatimid rulers proclaimed themselves true caliphs and may have originated much of the doctrine to justify their rule.
The common meaning often refers only to the Nizari followers of the Aga Khan, who claim exclu -sivily being the largest part of the Ismaili community today with over 10 million members. The Nizari accept Prince Karim Aga Khan IV as their 49th Imam. He is is descended from Nizar. Nizar was a pre-eminent pir (teacher or dialogician) also accetped as Imam by some. The 46th Imam, Aga Hassan Ali Shah, fled Iran to South Asia in the 1840s after a failed coup against the Shah of theQajar dynasty. Aga Hassan Ali Shah settled in Mumbai in 1848.
Like its predecessors, the present constitution is founded on each Ismaili's spiritual allegiance to the Imam, distinguished from the secular allegiance that all Ismailis owe as citizens to their national entities. The Nizari rule of the Aga Khan is progressive and patriotic. The present Imam and his predecessor emphasized Ismailis' allegiance to their country as a fundamental obligation. These obligations are to be discharged not by passive affirmation but through responsible engag -ement and active commitment to uphold national integrity and contribute to peaceful develop -ment.The Nizari followers of the Aga Khan are found in India, Pakistan, Syria, China and other countries. In countries such as Pakistan, they are prominent in government.
"Ismaili" as referring to all Nizari and Bohra (branches of Mustaali) Shi'a Muslims today. The Nizari were founded in the east, having split off from Egyptian Ismailis after the succession disp -ute at the accession of Caliph Musta'ali. The Mustaali originally split off after a succession disp -ute following the death of Caliph Musta'ali, and then split into the three Bohra branches over leadership disputes.
The Mustaali have three branches: Dawoodi Bohr, Suleimani Bohr and Alavi Bohra of India (evidently not to be confused with the Alawi of Syria). There are approximately one million but Dawoodi Bohras. The majority of these reside in India and Pakistan, but there are also larger communities of Dawoodi in the Middle East, East Africa, Europe, North America and the Far East.
"Ismaili" as an inclusive term, referring to all sects that derived from the original Ismaili doctrine. These include the Druze, who do not generally consider themselves Ismaili and who are often not classed as Muslims. They also include the "Seveners," who believed that Ismail or his son was the the last Imam, and not just the Seventh. They include the Hafizi, an "established religion" branch. The Hafizi believed that whoever the political ruler of the Fatimid Empire was, was also the Imam of the faith. The "Seveners" and the Hafizi are no longer extant.
Major practices and beliefs of the Ismaili. The Ismaili follow Dai - teachers and missionaries and Pir, dialogicians. Some Nizari Ismaili and Druze believe in reincarnation. All branches of Ismaili, unlike other Muslim sects, have ceased to take on converts for different theological reasons. The Ismaili were frequently persecuted and therefore practiced Taqiyah, dissimulation, to hide their faith.
Like Twelver Shia, the Ismaili believe that the true Imam went into occultation when persecuted and will return as the Mahdi or Messiah. However, whereas Twelver Shia identify the Mahdi as the twelfth imam, Muhammad al-Mahdi, the Ismaili, at least the original followers, believed it was Ismail bin Jaffar or Muhammad ibn Ismail. Several individuals were also identified by vario -us Ismaili sects are the returned Mahdi.
Ismaili faith is both universalist and at the same time particularist. They see the Imam as a manifestation Allah in this reality.
Ismailis hold that divine revelation took place in six periods (daur) entrusted to six prophets, who they also call Natiq (Speaker), commissioned to preach a religion of law to their respective communities.
While the Natiq was concerned with the rites and outward shape of religion, the inner meaning was entrusted to a Wasi (representative). The Wasi would know the secret meaning of all rites and rules and would reveal them to a small circles of initiates.
The Natiq and the Wasi were in turn succeeded by a line of seven Imams, who would guard
what they received. The seventh and last Imam in any period would in turn be the Natiq of
the next period. The last Imam of the sixth period however would not bring about a new religion of law but supersede all previous religions, abrogate the law and introduce din Adama al-awwal ("the original religion of Adam") practiced by Adam and the Angels before the fall, which would be without cult or law but consist in all creatures praising the creator and recognizing his unity. This final stage us the Qiyama.

Exception for the Mustaali Ismailis, Ismaili believe in panentheism, holding that God is both reality and transcends it. While the Godhead is outside this universe, the Godhead has created reality, which is God itself. All living beings exist in this reality; however, reality in its entirety is invested in the manifestation of Allah, the Imam of the time.
Numerology is an important feature of Ismaili belief and may have been responsible for the
spread of the Kabbalah among Jews as well. The number seven in particular, understandably,
has great significance.

Communities in Hunza

COMMUNITIES IN HUNZA

The Hunzakutz were once animist until the 16th or 17th century, when they became Shia Muslims, one of the sect of Islam. In 1820 Mir of Hunza Mr. Silum Khan III went to Wakhan Badakhshan to spend his youth where Ismaili Islam was prevalent, and accept the Ismailism and brought Ismailism to Hunza.
Most of the people of Hunza are Ismaili Shia Muslims, followers of His Highness Prince Karim Aga Khan IV, while in Ganish valley, a valley down the Karimabad has more than 90% Shia Itnashari(twelvers) Muslims. There are also a slight number of Sunnis and communities of the other faith.It was since the first arrival of Aga Khan fourth that proved a new phase in modern history of Hunza. He has provided a lot of funding for the area to develope standar of living and local economy under the umbrella of Aga Khan Developement Netework (AKDN).After visit of Aga Khan his “Aga Khan development network (AKDN)” took initiative step to develop the area, he realized that people in Hunza required Schools, Health units, link roads and irrigation channel, the Aga Khan Rural sports program started its work to construct Schools and health Units in Hunza and remote areas as well as Shimshal and Chuparsun.

RELIGIUS BELIEF OF ISMAILI MUSLIMS

The Legends also suggest that the only religions that flourish in high mountains are Buddhism and Hinduism. Islam flourishes in the Atlas Mountains of Morocco, in the coastal ranges of Yemen and Oman, among the peaks of northern and southern Turkey, in the Pamirs of Afghanistan and Russia and, above all, in the very highest reaches of the world: the western end of the Himalayan massif in northern Pakistan.As the valley of Hunza has seen many diverse cultures and civilizations through a passage of centuries from the Persian kings to Alexander the great, Kushans to Hindus and Buddhists to Muslims. The richness of Hunza culture is quite obvious, its folk music, dance, rituals and food have got the touch of diverse influences. Islam is devided into two major factions since the death of Hazrat Muhammad (P.B.U.H). They are known as Sunni and Shiat school of thought that hold a distinct set of religious belief. Shiat school of thought has a comprehensive concept of Immat after the death of the prophet (P.B.U.H). Shiat school of thought is further devided in many sects: Isnashary (twelers), Ismailies, Noorbakhshies, Bohries etc. Although now, the majority of population is Ismaili-Muslims but the rich culture of Hunza unveiled assorted and exclusive taste through traditional dresses, jewelry, cuisine, rituals and crafts.

HISTORY

Hunzukutz or Brusho, the inhabitants of Hunza,have there distinct history, culture, traditions, rites and rituals and are well known for open-mindedness and Hospitality. There are many theori -es about the origin of the Hunzukutz or Brusho. One of them is that they are the off springs of the six soldiers of Alexander the Great's army who lost their way in return and they opted to settle here in around 300BC. One presumption is that the Hunzukut came from Central Asian regions and among them were mostly people who either offended their own law or involved in any social crime; and the Hunza proved for them a heaven as a shelter. According to few archaeologists and Historians White Huns, Chinese invaders are the descendants of people of Hunza, locally called Hunzukutz or Brusho. Another legend says that the Brusho came from the Northwestern India into present Hunza via Gilgit route as an invaders.
Many people think that the word Hunza is the combination of two wards: Hun & Za.The meaning of Hun is the Bow and Za refers to Arrow. Commonly people think that the Hunza valley is looks like the shape of bow & arrow .Therefore they took the name Hunza.In Brushaski language (the local language of central Hunza or Proper Hunza) for Bowand Arrow we called Hunzsu niza. The Word Hunza is similar to that Burushaski word. More than five hundred of years it was ruled by a Prince until it came under control of British in October, 1891 after Nag Campaign and the ruler or prince escaped to China. The British given Hunza status of Princely state and ceded it to the local prince who was subjected to pay a certain amount as tribute, a tax on the area to conquerors. Finally the area got independence through a mutiny led by Army officials of Dogra forces suported by both soldiers and local population. In short, the origin of Hunza valley is obscured by legend: may be an offshoot of Trakhun Dynasty of Gilgit. From a marriage of royal cousins of the dynasty, one of the son Girkis became the ruler of Hunzukutz, the inha bitants of Hunza. The Mirs of Hunza sent an annual tribute to the Kashmir Darbar(a Persian term meaning Shah's noble Court until 1947. Through out in history people of Hunza have been known for their hospitality,generosity, modesty, courage, loyality and valour.
The first awarness among the people about euducation and learning came by 1960's when Prince Karim Aga Khan, the spritual leader of Ismaili Muslim community visited this backward area griped tightly into extreme poverty. His arrival proved a blessing to the destiny of the dwellers. People who were living in extreme conditions started to see their good days when His Highness Prince Karim Aga Khan introduced Diamond Jublee Schools on the occasion of Diamond Jublee celebrations. Today much has been changed ranging from the way the people live, the level of awareness about socio -economic and technological advancement due to introduction of education facilities. According to a recent survey approximately ninety percent out of total population is literate in Hunza. People enjoy to celebrate traditions, rites, ritual combined with the taste of modern trends.Gradually the trend of kids to play games in their leisure with dolls made from mud transforme into playing with new tools: computer and simulation machines. Hunza kids are now much inclined towards learning balancing the requirement in the meterial and spritual world.

HUNZA

Hunza has been a place that was in isolation for many centuries past. Hunza had been a mark of inspiration for traders traveling from Europe to China. For thousands of years, the Silk Road had been world's principle trade route stretching more than 10.000 kilometers linking Europe and China. The Silk Route crossed some of the world's highest mountains with endless steppes, but was relieved along the way by fascinating cities (Gilgit, Kashgar, and Xian) used as trading centers by the caravans hauling the precious products of faraway lands. Silk of course along with gems, spices, fine-paper, gunpowder and other goods came from the east, while from the other side came gold, silver, iron, cosmetics, perfumes, ivory and glass.
Hunza, some people described it as the lands of fairytale, where the snowcapped hills are like the dancing floor for the Aphrodite. Where the rivers roar in excitement and brush the stones to make them pebbles. Where the soft breeze murmurs to divulge the centuries old secrets. Where the old pine trees still embrace the clouds with warmth and passion to swing the droplet onflexible twigs. A terrain of serenity, and beholder of eternal beauty that make the on looker oblivious of the worldly life.
The route went across the Hunza while taking traders along with their goods that influenced belief, ideas way of life and perception of the dwellers. Hunza, that mostly remains covered under the sacred gown of snow in winter the sensuous hilly contour and the luxurious vegetation become a magnet to all and sundry. The indigenous population becomes live in the vibrant spring season after a long freezing winter when the temperatures in negative scale, make the life null and void.

Hunza-Photo Galary

Hunza in summer

______________________________________________________________

HUNZA IN EARLY AUTUMN

_______________________________________________________________

Hunza in early winter

Mid Winter

Above: An early morning in Attaabad, three weeks before massive land slide that claimed various lives, cattle and land property. Photo by: Shamsuddin Muhammad

An areal view of devastated village Attaabad, few days before clamity: Photo by: Shamsuddin Muhammad